January 13, 2014 at 8:41 am#574630
mohsen
Participant
check your spark plug wires might help. I would just pull them one at a time and hold them close to the spark plug and see if you get spark.
also I would look for more vacuum leaks around the car for the higher RPM. you can you some break cleaner and spray it around the upper and lower intake near the gaskets and also on the tubes and hoses your are suspicious. if there is a leak where you spray your rpm will rise. BE CAREFUL WITH WHERE YOU SPRAY. IT CATCHES ON FIRE PRETTY EASY. NO WHERE HOT.
just my 2 cents
January 14, 2014 at 3:41 am#574893
Don Clark
Participant
Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately there are no plug wires. It has an ignition control module that mounts right above the spark plugs. It connects with plug boots. I have also sprayed around the intake manifold and the rest of the vacuum system with brake clean and found no vacuum leaks.
January 14, 2014 at 4:10 am#574896
Jeff Ketchem
Participant
The 2.4 was bad about cracks in the housing where the coils mounted. I’ve ran into this several times and as bad as it pains me to say dealership parts have given me the best luck when replacing them. Stay away from bargain basem*nt part store stuff with these. I really think you may
have more issues than that though. Any more info you can share?
January 14, 2014 at 4:20 am#574899
Don Clark
Participant
Unfortunately that is all the info I can think of. I didn’t look at the coil housing too much when I changed the plugs. I will have to do that in the near future and see if I can find anything. I have found that people on other forums who have changed them didn’t fix the problem they had. I have been putting it off thinking it was a dead end repair, but I will look into it. Thanks.
January 15, 2014 at 1:13 am#575095
EricTheCarGuy
Keymaster
I don’t think the coil packs would cause a high idle. That sounds more like a vacuum leak, but you’ve said you’ve already checked for those. Given the condition of the rest of the vehicle, you may have some other issues going on like a wiring issue or something like that. The check engine light code you have is for a misfire. Perhaps check the compression to see if all the cylinders are putting out. If not, this can cause a rough idle. You might also want to check fuel delivery. A power balance test can also help you nail down a problem cylinder. I have some more detailed information on diagnosing idle problems and performance problems, as well as how to perform a power balance test in these articles.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-idle-problems
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-performance-issues
Hopefully that info is helpful. Keep us posted.
January 15, 2014 at 4:37 am#575198
Don Clark
Participant
Ok, just got done with a power balance test. I unplugged each fuel injector one at a time and they all caused the idle to drop. I have gone over the vacuum system but today I did find another vacuum line that I can’t account for. It goes from the accessory vacuum connector on the throttle body into the cabin somewhere. I lose it after the firewall in the engine compartment. It is wrapped up with a bunch of wires on the driver side and secured in a wire sleeve and that’s where I lose it. After some digging through a repair manual I found there is a heater and A/C vacuum harness in the dash. What does vacuum do in an HVAC system and are they prone to leaking? Thanks Eric for this forum and all of the vids. Just found out about them last week and I am already a fan. Keep up the good work.
January 15, 2014 at 4:38 am#575201
Jeff Ketchem
Participant
Can you post a picture or email me one of the hole and mounting bolt holes you described?
January 15, 2014 at 4:43 am#575214
Jeff Ketchem
Participant
The vacuum in the HVAC system is what makes your doors move to select between heat AC and position. You know that little whoosh noise when you move the HVAC controls? That’s the vacuum moving the doors. They do leak sometimes but usually you’ll notice the lack of control of the doors. (you lose heat/AC/position control)
January 15, 2014 at 4:45 am#575216
Don Clark
Participant
I just thought about it when I got done posting. I was just looking at it when I was doing the power balance. I will get a pic and post it sometime tomorrow.
January 15, 2014 at 4:49 am#575219
Don Clark
Participant
Well that’s not a problem then. That’s something on the car that works just fine lol.
January 15, 2014 at 4:51 am#575223
Jeff Ketchem
Participant
Awesome I believe you may have found the lack of your erg valve if I’m thinking right. Jared my memory when I reread your first post. Don’t hold me to it but I’d recognize it if I see a pic. The egr was in that general vicinity I believe. This could be source of a rough idle too if removed and not properly sealed off.
January 15, 2014 at 4:52 am#575226
Jeff Ketchem
Participant
[quote=”Twilightsteel” post=85226]Well that’s not a problem then. That’s something on the car that works just fine lol.[/quote]
LOL
January 16, 2014 at 3:14 am#575457
Don Clark
Participant
Here are the shots of the “something looks like it should be here” holes I described.
Attachments:
- IMAG0304.jpg
- IMAG0305.jpg
- IMAG0306.jpg
January 16, 2014 at 3:20 am#575492
Don Clark
Participant
More pics of the car.
Attachments:
- IMAG0310.jpg
- IMAG0309.jpg
- IMAG0302.jpg
- IMAG0303.jpg
- IMAG0307.jpg
- IMAG0308.jpg
January 16, 2014 at 3:46 am#575495
Jeff Ketchem
Participant
Hmmmm interesting. That looks like where the egr was located. If I remember right they phased out the egr in 2000. Can you tell me what the eighth and tenth character of the VIN is? I’d have to look it up but I think there were some with egr valves depending on engine.
